{"id":1828,"date":"2023-02-21T21:13:49","date_gmt":"2023-02-21T20:13:49","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/paulinerousseau.com\/?p=1828"},"modified":"2023-02-21T21:13:50","modified_gmt":"2023-02-21T20:13:50","slug":"les-pecheurs-de-massa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/paulinerousseau.com\/index.php\/2023\/02\/21\/les-pecheurs-de-massa\/","title":{"rendered":"Les P\u00eacheurs de Massa"},"content":{"rendered":"
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En face de l\u2019eau agit\u00e9e, se d\u00e9ploie une large plage de sable bord\u00e9e par une falaise ocre.<\/strong><\/p>\n

La plage de Sidi R'bat a \u00e9t\u00e9 pendant des d\u00e9cennies fr\u00e9quent\u00e9es par les nombreux p\u00eacheurs de la r\u00e9gion de Massa. Cette r\u00e9gion, au sud d\u2019Agadir, est depuis le Moyen-\u00e2ge connue pour \u00eatre un lieu de p\u00eache.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Dans les ann\u00e9es 90, il n\u2019y a pas si longtemps donc, on avait certains matins cent cinquante bateaux qui venaient p\u00eacher \u00e0 Sidi R'bat, comme me le raconte Brahim, p\u00eacheur natif du village.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Pourtant, lorsque je me prom\u00e8ne sur la plage, je ne vois aucun bateau.<\/strong><\/p>\n

La roche color\u00e9e qui ceint la plage attire mon attention.<\/strong><\/p>\n

En me rapprochant je constate qu\u2019elle est perc\u00e9e de grottes qui semblent am\u00e9nag\u00e9es. J\u2019\u00e9change avec les quelques p\u00eacheurs pr\u00e9sents et d\u00e9couvre que ces refuges troglodytes ont \u00e9t\u00e9 excav\u00e9s par les p\u00eacheurs eu-m\u00eames au d\u00e9but des ann\u00e9es 1990. Ils m\u2019expliquent qu\u2019ils s\u2019\u00e9taient \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9poque r\u00e9unis pour se r\u00e9partir les espaces et que chacun avait construit sa propre grotte \u00e0 m\u00eame la falaise.<\/strong><\/p>\n

L\u2019id\u00e9e initiale \u00e9tait d\u2019avoir des stockages pour le mat\u00e9riel de p\u00eache. Et aussi un lieu o\u00f9 se reposer l\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, ou boire un th\u00e9, au plus proche de la mer.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Environ 50 grottes jalonnent la falaise de Sidi R'bat. Elles appartiennent toujours \u00e0 ceux qui les ont creus\u00e9es ou \u00e0 leurs enfants. C\u2019est le cas de Ali et Ahmet, deux fr\u00e8res tous deux p\u00eacheurs qui ont h\u00e9rit\u00e9 la grotte de leur p\u00e8re.<\/strong><\/p>\n

On m\u2019explique que les grottes creus\u00e9es \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9poque sont, d\u00e9sormais num\u00e9rot\u00e9es et r\u00e9pertori\u00e9es. Et que c\u2019est maintenant tr\u00e8s contr\u00f4l\u00e9, ce n\u2019est plus possible <\/strong>d\u2019en creuser des nouvelles.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Aujourd\u2019hui, il n\u2019y a quasiment plus de p\u00eacheurs \u00e0 Sidi R'bat, pour une raison aussi simple qu\u2019alarmante : il n\u2019y a plus de poisson. Les causes de leur disparition sont diverses : pollution de l\u2019eau par les villes voisines, r\u00e9chauffement climatique, p\u00eache au chalutier dans les grands ports \u00e0 proximit\u00e9.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Les p\u00eacheurs qui, il y a encore 15 ans, vivaient de la p\u00eache, doivent aujourd\u2019hui trouver des alternatives ou partir. La grande majorit\u00e9 d\u2019entre eux a quitt\u00e9 Sidi R'bat.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Parmi ceux qui sont rest\u00e9s, il y a Brahim qui pratique la chasse sous-marine au harpon, Ahmed et Ali qui se rendent de mani\u00e8re \u00e9pisodique vendre leur force de travail dans des plus grands ports, Larsen qui est maintenant dans le b\u00e2timent, apr\u00e8s toute une vie en mer.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Quand ils ne travaillent pas, ils passent la majorit\u00e9 de leur temps dans leurs grottes, face aux embruns. Certains ont une maison au village, mais ils dorment r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement dans leurs grottes. Ils aiment \u00eatre \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9cart du village au plus proche de l\u2019eau.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00ab- Ici je suis tranquille. \u00bb me dit Ahmed, en me faisant go\u00fbter le d\u00e9licieux tagine de poisson qu\u2019il est en train de pr\u00e9parer. Il m\u2019explique que depuis qu\u2019il a divorc\u00e9, il vit compl\u00e8tement dans sa grotte, c\u2019est bien am\u00e9nag\u00e9, il y a des sanitaires et l\u2019\u00e9lectricit\u00e9, il est bien.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Brahim m\u2019offre un th\u00e9, on discute, je comprends qu\u2019il s\u2019agit avant tout de libert\u00e9, de ne d\u00e9pendre que de soi et des \u00e9l\u00e9ments, finalement.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00ab- La mer si tu la respectes, elle te donne, elle te donne de quoi bien manger et bien vivre \u00bb.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ce jour l\u00e0, la mer est haute et houleuse. M'Barak m\u2019indique que chaque ann\u00e9e il constate la mont\u00e9e des eaux. Bient\u00f4t la mer avalera en elle la falaise et aussi les grottes. Je me dis qu\u2019ils sont courageux ces hommes qui d\u00e9dient leurs vies \u00e0 quelque chose d\u2019aussi incontr\u00f4lable.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Larsen est heureux de voir les flots se d\u00e9cha\u00eener, c\u2019\u00e9tait trop calme ces derniers jours. En partant, il me souffle :<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00ab -Tu sais, il faut jamais trop lui faire confiance. La mer c\u2019est comme un b\u00e9b\u00e9, tu crois qu\u2019il dort et d\u2019un coup c\u2019est la crise!\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

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Merci \u00e0<\/strong>\u00a0Brahim, Ali, Ahmet, Ahmed, M'Barak, Larsen et Mohammed.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>

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En face de l\u2019eau agit\u00e9e, se d\u00e9ploie une large plage de sable bord\u00e9e par une falaise ocre. La plage de Sidi R’bat a \u00e9t\u00e9 pendant des d\u00e9cennies fr\u00e9quent\u00e9es par les nombreux p\u00eacheurs de la r\u00e9gion de Massa. Cette r\u00e9gion, au sud d\u2019Agadir, est depuis le Moyen-\u00e2ge connue pour \u00eatre un…<\/p>\n

<\/span>Read More<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1829,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"image","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1828","post","type-post","status-publish","format-image","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-non-classe","post_format-post-format-image"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"yoast_head":"\nLes P\u00eacheurs de Massa - Pauline Rousseau<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/paulinerousseau.com\/index.php\/2023\/02\/21\/les-pecheurs-de-massa\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Les P\u00eacheurs de Massa - Pauline Rousseau\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"En face de l\u2019eau agit\u00e9e, se d\u00e9ploie une large plage de sable bord\u00e9e par une falaise ocre. 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